Sport Climbing World Cup 2023 Villars: Olympic champion Janja Garnbret wins the 40th World Cup with lead triumph

Janja Garnbrett made more history IFSC Sport Climbing World Cup Stop on Saturday (July 1st) in Villars, Switzerland.

After her double triumph in Innsbruck two weeks ago, the sport’s first Olympic champion showed in Tokyo 2020 that she is once again the woman to beat after missing the first half of the season with a toe injury.

The 24-year-old Slovenian was the only athlete that evening who passed a strenuous testas she claimed her 25th Lead World Cup triumph and her 40th overall.

Jessica Pilz Austria came second ahead of the USA Brooke Raboutou on the third place.

Speaking to the IFSC afterwards, Garnbret said: “It feels incredible. I always like to come here. I feel at home here. After Innsbruck I felt confident. I saw that my leadership form was there, so I went to the competition.” Villars with full confidence. I just enjoyed the audience even though it was raining.”

On her spin move in front of the top area to face the crowd, she explained, “I had two choices. Plan A was not to turn around, but then when I got there I said, ‘Why not try it?’

“It was incredible, an incredible feeling, even though I was super tense and it felt a little weird, but looking down at the crowd and the cheering… it was incredible.”

Garnbrett victorious again

Pilz was first to start and was fighting against time, meaning she didn’t have time to shake her limbs and tackle the difficult upper section.

She reached 43+, setting the benchmark for the Korean star Kim Jain I am unable to get hold of this brand.

Mia Krampl progressed faster than Pilz and seemed comfortable as she passed the 30 mark. She then hesitated a bit before the young Slovenian turned to face the crowd before falling off the wall at 40+.

Pilz’ compatriot Mattea Potzi showed nerve early on in her first World Cup final, and the 22-year-old failed to complete the run-and-jump move before halftime, putting her in last place.

Tanii Natsuki Where Pötzi failed, he just about succeeded, but the 19-year-old Japanese also fell behind the time on the approach to the upper section and slipped on move 36.

When darkness fell and the rain began to fall, the Republic of Korea Seo Chae-hyun made it in time for the tricky top sequence but was then able to move her left leg up to get upright and fell just behind Pilz at 43.

American Brooke Raboutou was another who got confused at the start of the tricky upper section and by the time she made it, time was almost up. She climbed to 43 after the time was up before going even higher.

However, due to a higher semifinal score, she finished second ahead of Seo.

That left only Garnbret and, as so often before, found a way to the top that no one else had managed.

She spun like teammate Kampl at the start of the top section and then swung up to claim another win.

Jakob Schubert leads as experience trumps youth in men’s lead final

Austrian veteran Jacob Schubert took his first win of the season as the ‘old boys’ took the podium.

Pan Yufei the People’s Republic of China set the early goal with 34 moves with the German Olympic champion Alex Megas passed him by reaching 40.

Great Britain Toby Roberts came desperately close with a score of 39+, but then Olympic bronze medalist Schubert took the lead, although his big maneuver to reach the top narrowly failed and he scored a 43.

Adam Ondra Things looked smooth on his rise, but the Czech hero fell at over 41 and ended up in second place with two men to go.

American teenager Colin Duffy died at 37 and then at 16 Anraku Sorato – who won the bouldering event in Innsbruck two weeks ago – fell shortly before at the beginning of the last difficult section.

This secured Schubert – twice the age of the young Japanese – his 23rd World Cup victory.

He then told IFSC: “It feels so great.” It’s been a while, especially at the World Cup. When I spoke to Adam and Alex, I already had the feeling in Innsbruck that the field at the front is stronger than ever. Reaching the final is already a crazy achievement. It was just great to compete against the youngsters today, but also against the old ones.

“It also feels great to be on the podium with two great friends, Alex and Adam. We were just debating, ‘Was it one of the oldest podiums ever?’ Because Alex will be 30 this year, I’m 32, Adam is 30. The old ones dominated today.”