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There is no doubt about it: hanging cables when onsight climbing is significantly more difficult than hanging. And if you hang draws on a route that is at your physical endurance limit? Well, that’s just not fair.
Brandon Abrams climbed on Red River Gorge Funk Rock City for the first time and really wanted to on-sight some classics. First it was the turn of the long and juicy piece Funkadelic (5.10b) then Manic impression (5.10a). A nearby group had hung trains Needle eye (5.11b) and Abrams was grateful to onsight this too, eliminating curtained draws for the first time all day.
“At this point I felt confident, warmed up and ready to give up the draw [my] group and give Prime Directive [5.11b] a true onsight attempt,” Abrams said Climb. But as he climbed higher up the ridge and moved from the left side to the right side, he realized he was too motivated to break the pull he had hung at the crux.
“I tried [to clip]”, he said, “the first attempt was a fight [and] The rope tow had other ideas for me. The second attempt was a misjudgment of the position of the snapper on the carabiner, which resulted in me dropping the rope and giving up. When I decided to move on from that missed clip, I was unsure of the next steps ahead of me and couldn’t see the next sequence.”
Abrams desperately stabbed his feet before finally throwing himself off and receiving a “soft” catch from his belayer. “I’ll be there for you next time Prime Directive” said Abrams, “hopefully with someone to hang the draw for me.”
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