“Mode et Sport” at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs showcases the great Parisian couture houses, but also delves deep into the historical connections between what is shown on the catwalk, how we dress today, and the centuries-long role that movement has played played a role in the design, both of them. Instead of rehashing Google-ready fodder like how creative directors have designed Olympic uniforms over the years, the show takes viewers from modern Paris back to ancient Greece, the Renaissance and the Middle Ages.
During this time, paid courses transformed survival mechanisms such as hunting and fighting into entertainment or opportunities to prove oneself. Manuscripts, garments, and artwork from the period illustrate how the period ultimately spurred textile innovations and even the emancipation of women through the rise of crotchless pants. While armchair art historians are probably well acquainted with the scandal caused by Elisabeth Vigée le Brun's portrait of Marie Antoinette in a Shirt, they are probably ignorant of the uproar caused by Louis-Auguste Brun's masculinized hunting portrait of the queen. In it, she is easily mistaken for an anonymous nobleman as she rides astride the horse (instead of side-saddle) in men's hunting clothes. Each of these elements was unknown at the time and together they caused such a stir that the artist created a second, more socially acceptable version of the image.
It is this clever use of surprise that curator Sophie Lemahieu uses to impressive effect. For example, the interwar years in Europe are often credited with ushering women into modernity, and the garments on display highlight how quickly these changes occurred. Within 40 years, Victorian-era poplin ankle-length waders were replaced by prototypical bikinis. 1930s bathing ensembles like a cotton linen shorts suit from Hermès, a knitted jersey pantsuit that looks fresh from a Chanel resort collection, and a high-waisted two-piece swimsuit look shockingly modern. Speaking of Chanel, her knitted jersey suits from the 1920s and breezy dresses from the 30s boldly position her as the godmother of athleisure style.
In a show full of moments of discovery, you stand out from the crowd. Like René Lacoste, the forefather of the eponymous brand as it exists today, Lemahieu shares that designers Emilio Pucci, Ottavio Missoni and André Courrèges were also accomplished and passionate athletes who valued comfort and mobility in their ready-to-wear clothing. “It’s not enough to play and win,” Lacoste is quoted as saying by Lemahieu. “Style is important too.”
The endless hustle and bustle of the fashion industry news cycle can make five years of industry action feel like a lifetime. In the last few galleries, littered with '80s neon lycra gym tonic outfits and '90s tracksuits from Juicy Couture and Sonia Rykiel, the smallness of the industry's current moment is starkly apparent. Finally, visitors stroll through vintage and contemporary sports-inspired couture – recontextualized through centuries-old art, history and cultural shifts.
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