Balmain had Cher. Schiaparelli had Kylie Jenner. Off-White had Naomi Campbell, Winnie Harlow and Mos Def. As houses unveil their latest spring/summer 2023 collections at Paris Fashion Week, a not-so-quiet war of celebrity is being waged, with labels vying to feature each other trump the caliber of Stars they can summon.
On day one, Saint Laurent had Kate Moss and the wife of a former French president (Carla Bruni), while at Dior it was Blackpink’s Rose. On the second day, Cher closed Balmain’s show and joined designer Olivier Rousteing on the catwalk.
On the third day, rumors swirled around Place Vendome that Kylie Jenner was staying at the Ritz Hotel, and when she arrived at the Schiaparelli presentation next door wearing a royal blue velvet dress that plunged to almost scandalous depths, she brought the house down.
Aside from the celebrity wars, the city has also seen some exquisite fashion, starting with Dries van Noten. After a long absence, the house returned to Paris and presented a show full of optimism. Starting with all black looks – more elegant than strict – the garments slowly gave way to pastels, which in turn were replaced by brightly colored flowers, mixed and matched in a fun and uplifting way.
Over at Balmain, before hopping with his surprise guest, Rousteing presented a massive co-ed show with more than 100 looks. Many came seemingly licked by flames, and the men’s looks were particularly strong. The most spectacular outfits, however, were haute couture, draped in mesh and raffia and woven into space-age sculptural shapes to envelop and exaggerate the body.
Such visual tricks continued at Dior. While the actual Dior show took place on day one, day three offered visitors the chance to see the same pieces up close, which proved a treat when the collection’s couture elements were unveiled. For example, a dress thought to be made of lace was actually made of intricately woven raffia, while a crinoline dress was made of metallic fabric covered in golden lace. Elsewhere, above-the-elbow gloves originally thought to be woven were actually laser-cut from leather.
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Elsewhere, Belgian brand Delvaux showed off their latest bags, including an envelope clutch inspired by a piece from their own archive. After filing its first patent in 1828 – essentially inventing the modern handbag as we know it today – Delvaux’s archive is extensive, but somehow this particular design from the 1970s fell into obscurity until an employee with one of her inherited clutch came in grandma. With everyone excited about the rediscovered design, it has now been updated and relaunched for Spring/Summer 2023.
Updated September 30, 2022 10:37 am
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