Issey Miyake, who won international fame for his pleated designs and revolutionized the fragrance industry, has died at the age of 84. During his storied career, the Japanese designer found fans in pioneering personalities from all disciplines and eras. Despite his flair for the avant-garde, he was a designer for everyone.
Miyake’s most famous fan was, of course, Apple founder Steve Jobs. The tech pioneer wore Miyake’s black turtleneck almost like a second skin, creating an enduring personal image through the understated garment. But Miyake wasn’t just for the straight. In fact, the realization that Miyake is behind this indelible sweater may come as a surprise to those familiar with his runway collections. Other notable followers include architect Zaha Hadid, singer Solange Knowles, and Kim Kardashian.
Pop culture’s obsession with Miyake arguably began with Grace Jones. The entertainer has turned to Miyake frequently throughout her career, sporting his boldest and most sculptural designs. There were sculpted bustiers from Miyake’s popular fall 1980 collection, tonal looks, and three-dimensional durags. In fact, in her memoir, Jones credits Miyake with seriously advancing her career. The designer cast her in the risqué (then) 1976 show 12 Black Women. Jones’ club-art-kid spin on Miyake lives on. One of Jones’ most memorable Miyake looks – a straw hat the size of a flying saucer – was featured in the images surrounding Beyoncé’s latest album, Renaissance.
Today, vintage Miyake designs have become a must-have for celebrities who want to show their appreciation for fashion history (and feel comfortable doing so). So it’s no surprise that Rihanna, a walking fashion bible, wore a billowing 1978 Miyake ‘windsuit’ for her 2015 Rock In Rio set. Or that Kim Kardashian once casually wore a vintage Miyake piece while shopping in Calabasas. In the lush video for “Cranes in the Sky,” singer Solange Knowles recreated a series of connected dresses from 1999 that transform models into a sort of human centipede. And recently rising pop titan Doja Cat wore a sculptural Issey Miyake design to the red carpet, the fabric blooming like butterfly wings on the legs.
Miyake was probably happy to see this varied embrace of his attire; He appreciated the egalitarian potential of clothing. As Vogue’s Luke Leitch writes in a tribute to the designer: “Creator of the world’s most famous black turtleneck sweater, but also much, much more on the way, Issey Miyake will be remembered as one of the greatest designers of our time – both within.” of the realm of fashion design and beyond.”
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